Winter wonderland: the Northern Norway cruising experience

It’s almost 25 years since I first let cruising into my heart. The romance of that first encounter marked the start of a beautiful enduring relationship that may have lost (only) just a little of its sparkle in the long intervening years through over familiarity.

A Cruise Norway winter cruising familiarisation trip provided a timely reminder of what a special vacation cruising can offer. Messrs Bernard and Smith would be proud of this cover version of their Christmastime pop standard. The oxymoron of a cruise holiday without the heat of the sun is losing its dichotomy as slowly increasing numbers of ships are (re)positioned into cold climates for the winter months. Northern Norway in March is quite a contrast to the Caribbean climate that seduced me a quarter of a century ago but is no less impactful. In the months and years ahead I will have frequent opportunity to share my comments on cruising in Northern Norway with first-hand experience as my guide – in the meantime, I’ve catalogued some thoughts here while my memories are as fresh as the biting winds of North Cape. 

A short hop inside the Arctic Circle, Bodø is home to the strongest tidal current in the world. Check high- and low-tide times to see the Saltstraumen maelstrom at its best – 5.33am in March was a little too dark to fully enjoy the dramatic visual effect. There are many historical trading posts around Northern Norway but Kjerringøy is among the best examples and is easily accessible for cruise passengers at just 40km by coach and car ferry. With sea eagles in abundance, and likely seen without needing to go on a bird safari, the Aviation Museum would feature in my ‘top three’ Bodø tours. The U2 spy plane is the stand-out exhibit, but there is good variety to give all ages a rewarding education in aviation history. (Further information: www.visitbodo.com; www.portofbodo.com) 

Of the two berthing options in Narvik, one allows a two-minute stroll into town whereas the other requires coach transfers. Both quickly reveal Narvik’s relationship (and reliance) on iron ore – mined in Sweden and shipped south from this diminutive characterful port. The usual snow-based winter tours are all available here but a picturesque journey on the Ofoten Railway to Riksgransen and a visit to the remarkable Polar Park are the two stand-out tours. Combine one with reindeer sledging in Beisfjord and a trip to the war museum (which is moving to new large premises in 2016), adding both fun and culture to contemplate over strong coffee at the Tinja Mountain Lodge, to complete an eventful day. The recently storm-damaged Narvikfjellet cable car will compete strongly with its local tour rivals and present more of a quandary for visiting cruise passenger traffic when it reopens. (Further information: www.visitnarvik.com; www.narvikhavn.no) 

Tromsø really is the capital of Arctic Norway with outstanding air and sea port facilities as well as a breadth and depth of tours to entertain, amuse and inform visiting cruise passengers for much more than a one- or two-day stay will allow. Expect passengers to repeat a Norwegian cruise (or switch to a land-based vacation) in order to explore Tromsø further. The Polar Museum, Mack Brewery, Blåst, Polaria and Wilderness Center are all popular options to while away a pleasant day in the city. For those looking for something special, a day that combines a recital at the Arctic Cathedral (particularly if the spellbinding Berit Norbakken Solset is headlining) with lunch at Emmas Under and a cable car ride to the summit of Mount Storsteinen will be hard to surpass. (Further information: www.visittromso.no; www.tromso.havn.no) 

The brilliant dancing effervescence of the Northern Lights provide the primary draw for the borough of Alta, but it would be churlish to judge this destination solely on the unpredictable presence (or not) of Aurora Borealis. The usual array of winter activities are all available in Alta and the more adventurous, young and old, should seek out the company of renowned Norwegian explorer Lars Erik Niia and his Njalasouka Adventures for a range of bespoke outdoor escapades. If you’re looking for a break from the outdoors, don’t expect to warm up in the Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel – reindeer skins are in plentiful supply for overnight guests! Back outside, the hotel site also provides an opportunity to hop on a snowmobile or take a pleasant hike in the countryside. My only regret in Alta was the missed opportunity to view the UNESCO protected prehistoric rock carvings. (Further information: www.visitalta.no; www.altahavn.no) 

Like Alta, Honningsvåg takes a back seat to its headline act – in this case it’s the endless white plains and spectacular views of North Cape. At just 21 miles from the port, a snow plough-led convey will take you to the raw rugged beauty of the Northern tip of Norway. Our journey forwent the relative comfort of the coach in favour of an adrenaline fuelled snowmobile – providing an experience that made the journey as exciting as the destination. A well-equipped visitor centre provides sufficient indoor facilities to warm your body and fill your belly before your return journey. If time allows, go on the King Crab Safari and let me know if it was as good as I imagined it would be. (Further information: www.nordkapp.no; www.honningsvaghavn.no) 

Sandra Bratland and Eric Joachimsen were my companions throughout the trip. Finer guides and better company would be hard to find – both are wonderful ambassadors for cruising and Norwegian tourism. 

Further information:
www.cruise-norway.com
www.cnns.no